SquareMeal Review of
The Pass at South Lodge
In addition to swanning it in the swanky Camellia Restaurant, visitors to this lavishly refurbished Victorian mansion can also get up close and personal to the culinary action at the Michelin-starred Pass – a dramatic dining space right at the heart of the kitchen, complete with LCD screens beaming footage of the action. It may sound gimmicky, but this is serious stuff. New man at the pass Ian Swainson (ex-The Samling) has taken over the reins “with some success”, and his dramatic tasting menus are full of unexpected flavours and contrasts – not to mention tongue-in cheek dish names: ‘eye of the beholder’ involves braised whelks with oyster emulsion, sauce nero and shrimp vinaigrette, ‘three pigs’ is an assiette of suckling pig with truffle cream sauce, wild garlic and asparagus, while desserts might feature ‘concrete paradise’ (poached rhubarb and purée with rapeseed-oil vinaigrette and balsamic meringue). Swainson’s team “take food to another level”, staff are “so attentive” and the wine list is full of treasures (ask for a tour of the cellar).
UK Top 100 Restaurants 2015
Square Meal’s Best Restaurants in the UK 2015 is compiled using votes from our annual survey, last conducted in May and June 2015. Thousands of readers and bloggers took part and the results were moderated by the Square Meal editor and his nationwide team of professional reviewers. The survey does not ask for or include any restaurants in London. Click here for a full list of Square Meal’s Best Restaurants in the UK.