SquareMeal Review of
The Packhorse Inn
Total refurbishment by a local entrepreneur has elevated the Packhorse Inn from ‘heart of the community’ village boozer to aspirational dining destination – although drinkers can still prop up the light-filled bar and sample a little of what the kitchen has to offer (perhaps a plate of charcuterie or a burger with mooli slaw). Meanwhile, those ensconced in one of the elegant but snug dining areas make the most of a brief menu that includes quirky takes on pub favourites and more ambitious fare such as confit chicken wing with cauliflower and toasted yeast, fillet of Hereford beef and ‘Jacob’s ladder’ with shallot jus or monkfish with braised oxtail, parsnip and caviar. After that, save some room for banana soufflé with cream-cheese ice cream or blackberry trifle with whipped custard and blackberry sorbet. The reasonably priced wine list offers plenty by the glass, and there are bijou bedrooms upstairs if you need to recuperate.