SquareMeal Review of
The Marram Grass Café
At first glance, this tin-roofed café attached to a campsite looks like a non-starter, but The Marram Grass isn’t your average sausage-and-chips hole-up. “What a find!” exclaimed one fan after stumbling on this seriously eccentric eatery run by the two twentysomething sons of the site’s owner. Inside, it looks the part, from the wood-burning stove, fresh flowers and funky lime-green walls lined with sacking to a daily menu that screams local produce. Expect gutsy, ambitious and utterly delicious food that belies its makeshift surroundings: in wintertime, you might begin with Anglesey goats’ cheese mousse with smoked beetroot, apple salsa and horseradish, ahead of hake with burnt cauliflower, turnip, salted blackberries and celery salad or smoked lamb rump and compressed shoulder with roast parsnip purée, charred shallot and walnut crumb. Drinks have a local accent too. With a new kitchen and growing patch on the cards, plus a converted ‘barn’ for live events, we reckon The Marram Grass Café is on the up.