SquareMeal Review of
The Lillie Langtry
Jo and Rupert Clevely sold their Geronimo Inns pub chain to Young’s in 2010 for a reported £60m, but the couple are now back in the trade operating as Hippo Inns – and this is the latest of their six-strong group. The new company’s successful signature mix of decent booze and good grub in comfy surrounds is evident here. Totally transformed, The Lillie now resembles the sitting room of a middle-class Fulham terrace. Kick back with classic cocktails, wines at around £20, or Sierra Nevada, Blue Moon and Goose Island Honkers beers. Bag brunch, daily until 3pm (soft-shell crab buns, perhaps, or broken eggs, Jersey royals and chorizo); otherwise, choose homemade trad bar snacks and crostini, salads, spit-roasted chickens, or mains that might include grilled sea trout with sour tomato salsa. Ices and stickies bring up the rear, and slap-up children’s meals are also available at this newly salubrious old slapper.