SquareMeal Review of
Tom Kitchin’s highly regarded Michelin-starred restaurant on Leith’s reenergised waterfront comes with a swanky private dining room, a whisky snug and a temperature-controlled wine cellar – not to mention views of the kitchen from a specially designed window. Inside, there are also hints of Scotland’s heritage (tartans, sheepskins, silver birch), while Kitchin’s highly distinctive cooking is still founded on seasonal produce from regional growers, producers and fishermen. ‘From nature to plate’ is the mantra, and that translates into clever, complex ideas such as shellfish cannelloni served with crab, peas and a Newhaven ‘green crab’ bisque, stuffed saddle of Pathhead rabbit accompanied by braised artichoke and North Sea squid or roast duck with endive tart, roast carrot and orange sauce. To conclude, try something delectably seasonal such as Knockraich yoghurt pannacotta with gooseberry sorbet and elderflower consommé. The cosy dining room creates just the right mood, value for money is seldom in doubt, and visitors appreciate the chef’s personal, welcoming touch as he greets everyone individually in the bar.