SquareMeal Review of
The Kings Arms Fulham
For its first foray into the London pub scene, brewery Wadworth & Co has treated this gigantic site to an all-expenses-paid makeover, whose effect makes a serious impression. Tradition and modernity collide in style everywhere you look: in the main room, flowery upholstered seats and dandyish velvet banquettes contrast with trend-following subway tiles and pops of rich jewel colours. Meanwhile, the covered terrace highlights the area’s original features but brings them up to date with Perspex chairs, funky seat cushions and a colourfully regal mural. Brewery favourites such as Wadworth IPA share space on the bar with fruity bitters such as Farmer’s Glory and hoppy ales like The Bishop’s Tipple – these also make cameo appearances on the menu, with dishes such as ale-steamed mussels, beer-battered fish and chips, or stout-steeped chocolate cake vying for attention amid slow-cooked pubby dishes, sharing boards, snacky ciabatta and crowd-pleasing pizzas.