SquareMeal Review of
The Imperial Arms
Home Counties inn operator, Epic Pub Co, has snapped up this grand Victorian villa for its maiden London gambit, constructing a jazzy new bar as part of an art nouveau-influenced revamp. Here, the draught craft ales are serviceable, if not scintillating, but of more appeal to the Fulhamite clientele are the wines and cocktails. In a jolly rear courtyard, Sunday slackers soak up the sun alongside tart Lemon Meringue Vodka Sours or Brambles, or glasses of summery Picpoul. To eat, head for Anglo-American brunch classics at weekends, or the roast chicken, harissa mascarpone and rocket: one of three toastie fillings. The smart blue-green dining room is kitted out with courgette-tone leather booths, a fitting setting to devour the likes of wasabi steak tartare or crab and chilli crayfish samosa, followed by shepherd’s pie with Parmesan mash or pea risotto with mint salsa verde. Finish with tart, brownies or all-Brit cheeses.
The Imperial Arms is recommended for