SquareMeal Review of
The Hunter S.
Did the room stylist at this sister to The Hemingway in Victoria Park have a thing about Woburn Safari Park? How else to explain the stuffed menagerie on show at Hunter S? The assorted bison,
antelopes, peacocks and bears may no longer need feeding, but the punters are peckish – so bring on perfectly judged Scotch eggs with pickled veg, cheekily priced bacon cheeseburgers (£12.75 with a
packet of crisps) and pan-fried sea bream with caper and parsley sauce. Argentinian Malbec/Merlot (£18.50) is the entry-level wine on a truncated list; beer drinkers do better with Timothy Taylor
Landlord, Sharp’s and Sagres. Dead fauna and dead musicians’ recordings of pre-war dance numbers foster a 1930s colonial vibe at this occasionally misfiring homage to ‘gonzo’ journalist Hunter S.