SquareMeal Review of
The Hour Glass
Following on from its 2015 relaunch, this once-tired boozer has been given a new lease of life courtesy of the brains behind the nearby Brompton Food Market. The diminutive dark-wood bar is the perfect spot for a pint of Sierra Nevada and a Scotch egg, but we’d recommend heading upstairs to see what The Hour Glass is really capable of. With its sash windows and a feature wall of old doors, the restaurant offers an elegant – but straightforward – menu of British-themed dishes that yields satisfying results: our whipped cod’s roe on sourdough was a creamy, native take on a taramasalata, topped with crunchy raw fennel, while a crackly slab of pork belly came with butter beans in a rich, show-stealing jus. A silky rhubarb posset with ginger biscuit finished things with aplomb. A well-rounded wine list and snappy, smiley service also hit the mark – in short, a great addition to Brompton Road.