SquareMeal Review of
The Horse and Groom Fitzrovia
This ox-blood and Bovril-tone taproom bears all the hallmarks of a (now increasingly hard to find) working-class Victorian public house. It’s a beautiful boozer, with bow windows, a pillared frontage and original glazed tiles. A horse and a groom are painted in insets to either side of the first-floor dining room’s arched windows. Inside, the etched mirror glass is bedazzling. The venue comprises public, snug and saloon bars where reasonably priced wines, five ales on tap – from owners, Samuel Smith of North Yorkshire – and around two dozen bottled beers are served. Upstairs, the food eschews 21st-century pub grub trends. For lunch or dinner, start with a prawn cocktail, breaded mushrooms or soupe du jour (£3.95) followed by liver and onions, pies, bangers and mash, steak and kidney pudding, scampi and chips, or Greek salad. Classic desserts are the popular choice for afters.