SquareMeal Review of
The Gate Islington
Located opposite Sadler’s Wells Theatre, this second branch of the ground-breaking Gate takes the same clean-lined, eclectic approach as the Hammersmith original. Design-wise, the attractive corner site is very much of its time with bare filament bulbs, wooden floors, enamel pendant lights and windows all round, while owners Michael and Adrian Daniel continue to thrill with their cross-cultural, globally inspired vegetarian food: grilled halloumi in chermoula with freekeh, pomegranate and mint salad; sesame-coated smoked tofu with coriander pesto, pickled vegetables and seaweed; leek, trompette and Stilton tart; tortillas with two fillings, guacamole, sour cream and black-bean salsa – no hippie stodge here. Desserts are slightly more conservative – raw vegan cheesecake with prune jam, for example. Also look out for daily lunch/pre-theatre deals, weekend brunch, an all-day bar menu and an eclectic wine list bristling with organic, biodynamic and vegan bottles.
The Gate Islington is recommended for