SquareMeal Review of
The Earl of Essex
New Elizabethan ale fans will find much to admire at this well-executed pub behind Angel tube, where ‘Shaker-style’ decor sets the scene for a plethora of notable beers – some brought in by the
cask, others brewed in-house. An ever-changing cast has recently included Box Steam Half-Sovereign bitter, Stone Oaked Arrogant Bastard and plenty from Elizabeth I’s former colonies at sane prices.
Food-matching recommendations suggest homemade baked beans on toast with Joker IPA or salt beef on rye with Ska Modus Hoperandi from a list of bar bites. Otherwise, trade up to mains such as
venison and port suet pudding with parsnip purée and salsify (good with Camden Ink stout) or chicken livers with smoked bacon, spinach and mash (Paulaner). To finish, sticky toffee pud goes well
with Rogue Juniper Pale Ale – if you can find room.