SquareMeal Review of
The Duke of Clarence
Owners Geronimo Inns have treated the Duke of Clarence to a right royal makeover aimed at the affluent denizens of this swish neighbourhood. The new look sees the sober faux-Edwardian interior opened up, jazzed up and punctuated by ‘Rowntree’s fruit pastille’ lights – a comfy-cosy backdrop for sips such as Little Bird (gin) Negroni, Bulleit Old Fashioned and Chocolate Espresso Martini. Wines include some juicy Iberian reds, while beers range from Truman’s Runner, Sharp’s Doom Bar and Camden Hells on tap to a selection of bottled craft brews. You can nibble on lunchtime sarnies, Scotch eggs and sausage rolls or mix and match some small and larger plates – kedgeree, rabbit and burnt corn cakes with tomato jam, guinea fowl, bacon and cabbage pie with whiskey gravy, gussied-up burgers and steaks from North London family butcher Godfrey’s. Finish with similarly trad British tarts, crumbles and ices served by a bevy of cheerful staff.