SquareMeal Review of
The Drunken Butler
This Persian-inspired restaurant is the first solo venture of Yuma Hashemi and you get a real feeling that the chef has poured his heart and soul into the place, with plaster-washed walls, a menu featuring artily-shot photos of the kitchen team, and locally-sourced artwork lining the walls. A la carte is available, but we opted for the seven-course tasting menu at £58 (£116 with wine pairings). Hashemi’s cooking style melds French technique with Persian influences with truly interesting results. Oysters from Broadway Market are dressed with the zesty likes of ground pistachio and coucou sabzi, while a silky egg yolk comes resting in a pool of creamy saffron velouté, accompanied by a slice of lemon-dashed aubergine. A tender beef wedge pepped up with red cabbage, chorizo and a cauliflower purée is a highlight; not so an uninspiring dessert of chocolate mousse with a pistachio crumb. Service is a little slow and the restaurant’s poppy soundtrack is at odds with its romantic setting, but with some fine-tuning, we think the dynamic flavour combinations at The Drunken Butler will overcome any wobbles.
Persian Feast: £30
Maximum of 6 diners. Includes Tax, excludes service.