SquareMeal Review of
Young’s repositioning of The Coborn hasn’t been unanimously lauded by locals. Some lament the destruction of its charm, replaced by herb-toned, harvest festival shabby chic. A formulaic 2015 reboot of a backstreet boozer, perhaps, but at least the old girl hasn’t been converted into flats. Hold that thought while sipping a pint from Meantime, Camden or Truman’s (whose lager-ale hybrid Swift might join Young’s own brews on tap). Spritzes and cocktails, fancy fizz, wines from £18 and sunny-day Pimm’s alfresco are further draws – as are regular masterclasses from gin distillers. Snacks include sharing boards, moreish classic English savouries and mac & cheese. The main menu offers the likes of wild mushrooms on toast with poached egg; langoustine cocktail in a Bloody Mary mayo; tender calf’s liver with back bacon and colcannon; and beefy beef shin in ale suet pudding – plus sundry green grazing for veggies. Finish with filling old-school puds.
The Coborn is recommended for