SquareMeal Review of
The Bowler Covent Garden
Anyone who has seen Jez Felwick’s The Lawn Ranger (a grass-covered van that pops up at festivals and streetfood markets all over the place) will be familiar with the free-range meatballs being served up at his first restaurant, just off Seven Dials. Drop in for breakfast to pick up a Pit Ball (in pitta bread) and coffee, or wait till 11am when the rest of the menu is available. We think the Balafal (lamb and feta kofta) is bound to be popular, but the winner has to be its regularly changing Curved Ball, a monthly special which could be salmon and sesame or panko prawn, for example. Backing from POLPO’s Russell Norman should see this ballsy enterprise take off – let battle with Soho’s own meatballs-only newcomer Balls & Company commence.