SquareMeal Review of
The Andover Arms
A nostalgic hideaway in Hammersmith, this “proper pub” brings some infectious boozy hospitality to a well-heeled corner of West London. Readers like the Andover Arms’ “cosy, relaxed atmosphere” as well as its “good grub”, and the menu changes daily to reflect the best market produce. ‘Starting things’ such as ham hock terrine with piccalilli or pan-fried scallops with pea purée and balsamic reduction could give way to steak and venison pie, chicken Kiev or fillet of kingfish with braised fennel, sautéed new potatoes and pesto. For afters, try Eton mess or sticky toffee pudding. Crackling open fires, Persian rugs and Edwardian portraits are dotted through the dining room, while a glossy mahogany bar displays the pub’s extensive stock of Fuller’s ales, plus guests such as Lancaster Red. Otherwise, the constantly evolving wine list is matched to the flavours of the season.