SquareMeal Review of
Chef Stefano Stecca was last seen at Toto’s on Walton Street (now Dinings SW3) but hasn’t moved too far away for this first solo restaurant. Stecca is very much a SW10 local rather than a London-wide destination, in spirit a contemporary update of the low-key Italians that were Chelsea’s bread and butter in the 1960s and 70s, all white walls and tablecloths, and dark wood chairs and floors. The uncomplicated cooking fits the bill for mid-week lunches and casual suppers, though be warned that portions are not overly generous for the reasonable-looking prices. The best thing we ate was a spin on cacio e pepe involving thick-cut rings of mezzi paccheri pasta cooked al dente and with the cheese and pepper flavours both boldly to the fore. We also enjoyed a junior-sized Dover sole, though a rather tough apple tart was not a good end to the meal; perhaps a bowl of Italian cherries would have been a better fit for Stecca’s simplicity. There’s decent choice under £40 on the all Italian wine list (plus some SuperTuscans if you want to push the boat out), and a dozen by the glass. A courtyard garden at the back, interspersed with planted trees and with ivy tumbling from the fencing, is a summer secret worth knowing about.
Stecca is recommended for