SquareMeal Review of
Smith & Wollensky
This smart US import follows its transatlantic forebears by focusing on USDA, British and Irish beef butchered on the premises and hung in an impressive dry-ageing room. Located in the art-deco Adelphi Building, S&W's interior will knock your socks off with its parquet floors, leather banquettes and striking murals creating a gloriously decadent 1920s feel. Prices are hefty and so are the portions – a side of truffled mac 'n' cheese could feed four happily. Taking on the challenge, we devoured this with bone-in rib-eye and sirloin steaks, both obviously well sourced and served with 'steakhouse fries' (that
were actually closer to British chips). The weekend brunch menu stays true to the restaurant’s carnivorous reputation with dishes such as eggs with braised short rib, smoked bacon hash and the protein-packed sirloin steak and fried eggs, alongside a selection of nine bespoke Bloody Marys. A few elements of this fiercely American menu seem to get lost in translation, although there are some great US wines on show, plus there are set menus offering smaller portions and better value. Share or go with homesick Americans.
Smith & Wollensky is recommended for