SquareMeal Review of
French chef Yoann Chevet’s CV cites experience in a clutch of Michelin-starred establishments in Paris and London, which has presumably set him up nicely for this solo venture with his Korean wife Sujin Lee. Divided between a wooden bar overlooking the kitchen and a smattering of tables in the dining room, Sinabro is sparse and diminutive with patches of exposed brickwork, gilt mirrors, curved wooden surfaces and large, teardrop-shaped dangling light bulbs. Fixed-price menus offer just four of five choices for each course, with minimal descriptions but lots of fancy detailing on the plate: ink risotto, squid and chorizo; coley, chicory and cauliflower; veal shank, white beans and red wine sauce; fennel bavarois, strawberry and lemon sorbet. Saturday brunch offers various croques, eggs and a few lighter dishes. The name Sinabro is from a Korean phrase meaning ‘slowly but surely without noticing’.