SquareMeal Review of
For its seventh outlet in a burgeoning bar empire, Simmons has bravely taken on a tricky site that’s seen off several ill-fated ventures – most recently, Lucky Pig’s Fulham foray. The converted Victorian church hall has received a largely cosmetic postmodern makeover, complete with tacky retro ornaments evocative of Bognor bungalows. Drinks (agreeably discounted during happy hour that lasts until 9pm on weekdays) include Meantime ales on draught, approachable vino and a selection of disco, kitsch and classic cocktails: Long Island Iced Tea (£8), Coconut Mojito, Bramble or a rum and orgeat ‘My Tie’, perhaps. Teapot and tiki serves are popular with the bar’s target demographic; Sex With A Teapot (a peach schnapps, and vodka-laced fruit punch) is unlikely to seduce more seasoned sybarites. Nevertheless, Simmons doesn’t pretend to be The Savoy, so if you’re in the mood for full-on fun and funky, this new DJ bar should fit the bill.