SquareMeal Review of
This typically stark Scandi smokehouse is the result of Rök Shoreditch's success, offering the same fermented-and-fired formula. Nab the window seat for airy Upper Street spying, or head to the rear for a snugger corner near the open kitchen. Below The Smoke enthusiasts will appreciate a handful of muscular cocktails paired with a choice of pickled and flavoured veg – it's the Northern European way, you know. What follows is a refreshingly niche selection of flavours: scallops on a bed of n’duja and seaweed; water-bath-tender pork with pickled green apple and sauerkraut; barbecued cabbage with rice, macadamias and Sweden’s Västerbotten cheese. Piquant and sour flashes run through everything, so while coal-black sweet potato with crème fraiche or comfortingly rich potato gratin provide respite, this menu predominantly packs a punch. Desserts are conversely sweet and heavy (our wood-smoked peach was a sticky, juicy revelation), while the wine selection favours the Old World and, like the food, keeps things affordable. If word spreads, Rök will become a destination for adventurous foodies.