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Previous restaurants haven’t flourished on this site, but a brave young couple may now have succeeded with this cosy Italian. Primavera’s repertoire doesn’t stretch boundaries, sticking to familiar favourites (pastas and risottos; meat and fish), including a nice line in crispy-based pizzas, indulgently topped. Nevertheless, the cooking shows flair. Plump, garlicky portobello mushrooms were seductively bosky; a trio of large green-lipped mussels came topped with a bubbling Parmigiano and herb crust. Next, a generous portion of scallop and crayfish linguine featured creamy, al dente ribbons of pasta. Mains were meaty: tender and just-this-side-of gamey venison steak cut like butter and sat on silky sweet potato mash, while three enthusiastically charred lamb cutlets had pink centres that were lent extra flavour by dribbles of lip-smacking fat. Desserts such as tiramisu and affogato are traditional, but none the worse for that. The sand-coloured interior, strewn with fairy lights, seats 30 and incorporates a small bar; evocative soundtracks produce a seaside Med vibe. During ‘happy hours’ staff serve wicked Watermelon Martinis with complementary snacks – adding to our impression that Primavera is a sweet place, run with heart.
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