SquareMeal Review of
Cosy Pidgin, tealights aflicker, does one menu, a four-course set with wines – three red, three white, all bargainous – that changes weekly. It’s the brainchild of writer James Ramsden and writer-musician Sam Herlihy, who have laid to rest their Secret Larder supper club to open this bricks-and-mortar restaurant on the teeny-tiny site previously occupied by Mayfields. They’re real restaurateurs now, with a real chef in Dan Graham (ex-Dinner by Heston), but they’re sticking with a friendly, low-key supper club vibe. We won on our visit with a nominally modern British menu loaded with funky Asian touches, and a peach of a Viognier from Languedoc. An impactful opener of barbecued squid, kimchi and (unnecessary) chicken-fat powder segued into a subtle autumn vegetable ‘salad’ with jasmine rice broth, followed by roast quail with creamed corn and herby ‘green sauce’, then sticky apple bread pudding with sticky miso butterscotch. Considering that the kitchen hasn't repeated a dish from its weekly changing menu in over a year, this is an exciting and successful dining concept, which made for a thoroughly enjoyable evening.