SquareMeal Review of
Located within the extensively revamped University Arms (Cambridge’s oldest and most famous hotel), Parker’s Tavern sees Cambridgeshire-born Tristan Welch returning to his old stamping ground. After stints cooking at London high-flyers such as Pétrus and Launceston Place, this homecoming also heralds a simpler way of doing things – ‘no fuss, no froth, just honest ingredients’, says the blurb. Instead of high-end intricacy and fancy-pants folderols, Welsh’s kitchen deploys seasonal produce from the region in clear-flavoured dishes such as rose veal with minted broad beans, alongside festive showstoppers including Norfolk fruits de mer or roast suckling pig with wild mushrooms. Naturally there’s Cambridge burnt cream to finish, as well as a bonbon trolley loaded with bite-sized goodies. Martin Brudnizki’s design highlights the heritage with white marble, red chesterfields, pewter and shades of Cambridge blue, while the verdant expanses of nearby Parker’s Piece beckon on warm days.