SquareMeal Review of
Ox Club at Headrow House
The Ox Club inhabits the relaxed, convivial surroundings of Headrow House, a former textile mill built in the early 1900s which also houses a beer hall and cocktail bar. Food, listed on a daily changing menu, is confident, succinct and seasonal. Our bread arrived with a luscious dip of golden chicken schmaltz, followed by well-executed starters of pork belly with burnt pear and black pudding, and succulent grilled chicken thigh with pomegranate molasses, sumac yoghurt and fried chickpeas. But it’s the Grillworks wood grill (imported from Michigan) that provides the culinary highlights, imparting a unique flavour to ingredients such as flat-iron steak, whole mackerel or guinea fowl. Our sirloin steak, a special, was beautifully seared and juicy, served with buttery, tarragon-spiked béarnaise; a side of charred cauliflower with romesco sauce was smoky, complex and intense. Accompany it all with something from the concise wine list or a UK craft beer.