SquareMeal Review of
Part of a mini restaurant empire that spreads its tentacles around the local streets hereabouts, this is Mauro Sanna’s temple to red meat, with pictures of happy sheep looking down from groovy monochrome walls as diners tuck into a Sardinian’s carnivorous dream. To begin, try steak tartare enriched with bottarga and spiked with chilli or some deeply unctuous marrowbone, simply roasted, with a sprinkling of salt and some crostini to cut through the richness. There are excellent handmade pastas too (malloreddus ‘shells’ served with homemade Sardinian-style sausage is proper comfort food), or you can head straight for the house speciality – richly flavoursome porceddu (suckling pig), slow-roasted and served with potatoes. Finish with ice cream (made down the road at Olivo’s own gelataria) or choose some cheese from their deli. The wine list revels in its Sardinian roots, but travels the whole of the Italian peninsula.