SquareMeal Review of
Old Tree Bakery Soho
A slimmed-down offshoot of the Old Tree Bakery (aka Daiwan Bee) in Golders Green, this cramped Soho canteen
delivers authentic Taiwanese street food for curious Londoners and homesick Taipei émigrés. Ignore the hard benches and narrow tables and focus on the regional delights emanating from the tiny
kitchen: aromatic homemade Taiwanese sausages, oyster omelettes and delicate salt-and-pepper tofu sit alongside signature rice dishes including the signature pork belly with stewed egg or
stir-fried chicken with chilli, garlic and black sesame oil, all accompanied by soup and ‘pickle relish’. A counter of pastries and cakes testifies to Old Tree’s origins as a bakery, and the drinks
list is topped by a range of super-trendy tapioca-based ‘bubble teas’. Note: no toilet, cash only.