SquareMeal Review of
With its spartan wood-panelled snugs, sober mahogany bar and authentic Guinness artworks, the bar at Niall Davidson’s Nuala restaurant might look as if it has been around for a century. In fact, this darkly lit conspiratorial cellar opened late in 2017 and is a fine example of a modern Irish bar. Refreshingly devoid of leprechaun lore, its focus falls firmly on a cracking collection of whiskies. Method and Madness Malt, Powers John’s Lane, Connemara Peated and Clontarf Classic head the Irish contingent, with plenty more from Scotland and the States. Satisfyingly strong cocktails (some whisky-based, others not) include a Manhattan made from aged single malt, Armagnac, Palo Cortado sherry, squash-seed oil and honey; alternatively, try a mezcal, Tequila, kümmel, tomato water and spiced puncheon to share. Throw in well-kept Guinness, live music (from folk to rocking renegades), and snacks such as scampi-fried quail eggs: that's the craic.