SquareMeal Review of
Following its upgrade – involving the transformation of a cherished old pub, The Fountain – Novi has struggled to define its culinary self. A failed sharing-plates concept was followed by a series of street-food pop ups that also didn’t catch on. With the aim of turning things around, a new, less ambitious menu has recently been launched. Choice is limited: just a handful of quirky mains (quinoa and falafel sliders; sirloin steak with a chimichurri, avocado and spinach salad), plus a couple of sharing platters. Smaller bar snacks are similarly esoteric (Tabasco zucchini chips anyone?). Sadly, we found that table service wasn’t great, as staff focused on their forte, the bar. Modern Scandi decor, big picture windows that can open on to the street, and a killer cocktail list (there’s a second-floor lounge bar) make Novi ideal for evening drinks. Alternatively, drop in during the day for a relaxed brunch with coffee.