SquareMeal Review of
Conveniently located for Columbia Road Market, this bijou half-timbered tavern has been rebranded from its previous incarnation (Fanny Nelsons) by owner Andy Bird – of Chesham Arms and Bad Sports fame. It’s a welcoming spot (‘LGBTQI/ kid/ dog-friendly’): all random retro clutter, cosy red furnishings, wood-burning stove and cheek-by-jowl seating. Food is now a democratic assortment of pies and mash, plus a wildly popular Sunday late-late lunch that offers lemon- and garlic-stuffed organic chicken; roast leg of Welsh lamb or black beef; and nut roast with all the trimmings – with double-choc brownie, salted caramel and hazelnut cream to follow if you dare. Drinks also measure up, ranging from failsafe wines to punchy Continental brews (draft Delirium Tremens) and London craft beers from the likes of Reunion and Redemption. For cocktails, head downstairs where cocktail whizzes Simon Thompson and Jake O'Brien Murphy (from Caloo Callay) have teamed up to create a 'Social Club' bar, featuring highly creative house cocktails, as well as beers and a War on Terroir wine list.