SquareMeal Review of
Restaurant Moor Hall
Previously executive chef at two-Michelin-starred L’Enclume, Mark Birchall has brought his own distinctive style to this restaurant-with-rooms within a historic16th-century manor house. The renovated dining room has a modern, laid-back feel, with surrounding glass walls giving panoramic views of the lawns and lake. Much of the restaurant’s produce is grown on the five-acre site or sourced locally, and the result is two tasting menus showcasing former Roux scholar Birchall’s innovation and talent. Appetisers of crisp, light black pudding parcels set the tone for a series of beautifully presented dishes demonstrating impressive skill and attention to detail. A pretty bowl of white and brown crab, asparagus tips and intensely savoury turnip broth is garnished with sunflower cream and fragrant anise hyssop, while Herdwick lamb is partnered by grilled lettuce, nasturtium and onion. Herbally embellished desserts could include merchant cherries with woodruff and almond or strawberries with lemon verbena, apricot and meadowsweet, but don’t miss out on a visit to the dedicated cheese room. With friendly, professional service and flawless cooking in elegant surroundings, Moor Hall “could be a world-beater”, predicts one fan.