SquareMeal Review of
The Waney family (Roka, Zuma) knows a thing or two about spotting the next big thing and this Fitzrovia newcomer impresses. The calming, neutral space features two separate entrances, each with its own alfresco terrace. Sweet and knowledgeable staff guide you through a menu of contemporary Greek dishes, alongside a sommelier to help you pick from a strong selection of Greek wines and cocktails made using citrus fruits from the island of Naxos. We started out with a selection of mezze, including crispy deep-fried calamari, cumin-spiced meatballs served swimming in rich tomato sauce, and rice-stuffed dolmades topped with fresh, creamy Greek yoghurt. Mains ramp up the indulgence with the likes of thick tagliatelle topped with supremely tender slow-cooked beef cheeks and graviera cheese from Crete. Our dish of creamy spaghetti with bursts of zingy lemon and bottarga from Mesologgi was on the rich side, but a delight nonetheless. Simple, yet effective desserts included a thick hazelnut praline encased in a snap-apart chocolate shell, which successfully contrasts with a dome of sour cherry sorbet. It’s yet to be seen whether Meraki can hold its own against the fierce competition in the area, but it’s certainly a solid choice for comfort-food seekers.