SquareMeal Review of
An Italian addition to London’s ever-growing steakhouse scene, this outpost of the artisan Maxelâ chain is essentially a meat emporium with tables (the name means ‘butcher’ in Genoan dialect). A
carcass-laden window display sets the scene, and there’s no let-up inside, where a chilled counter is loaded with Flintstone-sized ribs, T-bones and fillets. Fassone beef from Piedmont is the big
draw here, appearing raw as thick carpaccio or unadorned oil-dressed tartare. Bresaola and burgers cater for other palates, and the Genoan influence means pasta such as fat strands of taglierini
with tomato ragù. The main event doesn’t disappoint, either – great slabs of deeply tender, beefy protein seared to crusty perfection and presented under a sliver cloche. Stripped-back,
homestead-style interiors and passionate staff keep things honest, prices won’t break the bank and the succinct wine list is an all-Italian affair.