Ma Goa 1

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Serving Putney since 1993, this longstanding exponent of Goan and “amazing South Indian food” is still a family affair, with the owner’s mother taking her turn in the kitchen as well as visiting Tooting market for supplies. It’s not modern or trendy, but the “lack of pretension”, charming staff and reasonable prices more than make amends for any absence of modish cool. Traditional prints line the walls and the carefully annotated menus offer a fascinating selection of regional dishes far removed from the usual tikka masalas. Instead, there are “judiciously spiced” home-style recipes full of inventive textures and original flavours: try a little earthenware pot of hot-and-sour shrimps balchao with organic ‘whole-wheat’ bread, traditional pork vindaloo infused with palm vinegar or “mouth-tingling” Konkan-style chicken with Goan red masala. The spice-friendly wine list comes courtesy of the restaurant’s own merchant (Glug) next door.

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