SquareMeal Review of
Its name may conjure up visions of bucolic waterways, but Lockhouse inhabits a new tower at the distinctly urban Paddington Basin. This sizeable bar-diner sports a raw post-industrial interior (complete with red sea container) softened by the now-obligatory 1950s-style furniture. Drinks, too, follow long-established trends: craft beers (naturally), all bottles of wine at £20, and plausible £7.50 cocktails (including a brown butter-washed bourbon Old Fashioned and a Tequila and mezcal papaya Margarita). The menu from an all-day kitchen (this new quarter is home to myriad offices) lists eggs Benedict and a full English among its UK-US breakfast and brunch staples, as well as New York deli sandwiches (fair value at £5). A batch of salads includes a Caesar that imagines mackerel in the mix, and Indonesian-style chicken gado-gado. It’s all perfectly acceptable if not exactly memorable or original: a template (staff claim) for more to come from owners Redcomb Pubs.