SquareMeal Review of
Wedged into a row of whitewashed fishermen’s cottages, this congenial one-room restaurant has come on in leaps and bounds since the arrival of Michael Smith – formerly chef/director of the nearby Three Chimneys, Colbost. With help from his French wife (a dab hand with interior design), they have refreshed the dining room, adding some modern blue/grey tones, old mirrors and curios. Michael has also elevated the food to Michelin-starred status, with most of the honours going to his showpiece 'fruits de mer' tasting menu – think a duo of local lobster and prawns with apple, sorrel and a tattie scone followed by sea trout with cockles, summer vegetables and chanterelles. There’s an abundance of fish on the carte too, alongside short rib and onglet of beef with neeps, ‘syboes’ (spring onions) and parsley relish or a pairing of Highland pigeon and hare with cauliflower, wild mushrooms and spiced bacon. After that, don’t miss the cloutie dumpling soufflé with whisky cream. Speaking of wee drams, plenty of Highland malts are on offer – in addition to local beers and some decent wines.