SquareMeal Review of
Peruvian chef Virgilio Martínez first wowed Londoners with Michelin-starred Lima in Fitzrovia, following on from his world-renowned restaurant Central, located in Lima itself. This more accessible outpost is found within the hustle and bustle of Covent Garden, and features a blue and white hued dining room, boasting an extensive menu which focuses on the unusual indigenous ingredients that define Martínez's style. We’d recommend a cross-menu assault to make sure you get the most of your experience, and friendly, talkative staff are on hand to guide you through a menu of unusual yet well-executed dishes; take the deep-fried king prawn and squid marinated in spicy ají amarillo and served with gritty corn, or the seabream ceviche, pepped up with tuna and octopus cubes bathed in a vibrant and citrusy tiger’s milk, and topped with sweet potato purée and crispy corn. Other highlights include the trio, a rainbow-coloured plateful of strips of salmon, tuna and cobia fish marinated in a heady mix of tiger’s milk, cucumber and sesame. Meat lovers will also rate the seared beef loin, which is served cold and marinated with mild dried chillies and a drizzle of algarrobo syrup. Come dessert, the alfajores is a must-order; traditional Peruvian shortbread-style biscuits filled with thick and smooth dulce de leche and served with dulce de leche ice cream, mini macarons and a sticky caramel sauce. Don’t want the night to end? We’d suggest heading down to the basement bar for some post-dinner pisco sours.