Lake Road Kitchen 333

Squaremeal Review of Lake Road Kitchen ?

‘Preserving and pickling’; ‘working with nature’; ‘growing our own produce: chef James Cross is certainly in tune with the zeitgeist – not surprising since he cooked at world-beating Noma before deciding to shake up touristy Ambleside with his radical cuisine. ‘We use ingredients that thrive in our weather zone’, says the blurb, so expect wild pickings and indigenous ingredients galore, all combined in revelatory dishes with lots of new Nordic echoes. Meaty snails are dressed with a fearsome green miso made in-house from peas and beans; a tartare of Norwegian fjord trout encircles a confit duck-egg yolk; a sweet caramelised scallop is enlivened with fermented apple purée and dill oil. As for meat and game, expect anything from Galloway steaks (dry-aged for 230 days!) to Scottish roe deer with black truffle purée and leeks. To finish, a plate of oh-so-pink preserved rhubarb and buttermilk ice cream is garnished with a seed-speckled linseed cracker that looks like something out of Tate Modern. LRK is a modest no-frills space with wooden planking on the walls, bare tables and an open-to-view kitchen – it’s also the kind of eatery where you’re expected to pour your own wine. Nevertheless, we think it’s stunning.

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