SquareMeal Review of
Lake Road Kitchen
‘Hyper-seasonal, climatically local cooking’ is the name of the game here, which means a tuned-in zeitgeist-hugging amalgam of ‘preserving and pickling’, ‘working with nature’ and so on. It should come as no surprise that James Cross cooked at world-beating Noma before deciding to shake up touristy Ambleside with his radical cuisine. Expect wild pickings and indigenous ingredients galore, all combined in revelatory dishes with lots of new Nordic echoes: meaty snails are dressed with a fearsome green miso made in-house from peas and beans; a tartare of Norwegian fjord trout encircles a confit duck-egg yolk; a sweet caramelised scallop is enlivened with fermented apple purée and dill oil. Elsewhere, beef carcases are dry-aged for up to 215 days! To finish, a plate of oh-so-pink preserved rhubarb and buttermilk ice cream is garnished with a seed-speckled linseed cracker that looks like something out of Tate Modern. LRK is a modest no-frills space with wooden planking on the walls, bare tables and an open-to-view kitchen – it’s also the kind of eatery where you’re expected to pour your own wine (sourced from Northern Europe, naturally). Nevertheless, we think it’s stunning.