SquareMeal Review of
The reinvention of pan-Asian hangout Mao Tai as Japanese-themed Koji has done little to dampen local enthusiasm for this bubble of West End glitz in SW6. Now centred around a "gorgeous" sushi bar, its sleek lines and seductive lighting suggest serious dining – although there's plenty of fun to be had under the feather chandeliers too. Attention to detail is evident throughout, from the "incredible" cocktails (don’t miss the chilli and lemongrass Martini) and “best sushi in SW London” to trendy tapas plates (chicken and shiso gyoza, summer rolls with yuzu dressing) and knockout robata grills served on pretty artisan crockery – perhaps pork belly with spicy sweet miso or glazed salmon teriyaki. The kitchen is now in the hands of Rolando Ongcoy (from the distinguished Nobu stable), and readers are blown away by his “sublime food”, as well as Koji’s “terrific ambience” and “always great” service. Prices can be eye-watering, but this hotspot is still a "must-visit, even if you don't live in Parsons Green".