Kennington Tandoori 1

313 Kennington Road , London, SE11 4QE

1 reviews

35 Indian Lambeth

SquareMeal Review of Kennington Tandoori

With its private dining facilities and discreet location, this 30-year-old neighbourhood Indian is quite a favourite with Westminster politicos who want to get away from the fray. Inside, 1930s glitz meets contemporary mod cons, with earthy colours, dim, recessed lighting and the occasional oversized flower arrangement adding to the dramatic effect. The menu dresses up its offer with a few exotic-sounding names, but the result is “fabulous cuisine” according to one fan (although spicing is pretty vigorous). Tandooris, tikkas, dhansaks, jalfrezis and other curry-house standbys share the billing with Calcutta tamarind chicken, murgh xacuti (‘the rugby players korma’), lamb curry with shatkora (citrus fruit) and machli porichatu (a Keralan fish dish with delicate saffron and coconut sauce). Also check out the ‘classic specials’ from the KT bar – perhaps a ‘green’ Pimm’s or 007 (Champagne, vodka and angostura bitters).

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7.0

Food & Drink: 8.0

Service: 7.0

Atmosphere: 7.0

Value: 8.0

Food & Drink: 4.0

Service: 3.0

Atmosphere: 3.0

Value: 4.0

BoatLady platinum reviewer 27 June 2012

If portly politicians could cast gastro-votes then Kennington Tandoori would win the next culinary election by a landslide. My eagle eyes spot a reassuringly well-padded chap at the back who, I tell my dining companion, has the corpulent air of an MP about him. “It's Ken Clarke, dear”, he says. In my defence my eyesight is poor and KTs (as it is affectionately known to the local punters and the many Members, such as the authoritatively waistlined Ann Widdecombe and John Prescott, who frequent it) is discreetly lit. The elegant restraint of the dim recessed lighting is continued in the sludgey/earthy decor and only burst by occasional oversized flower arrangements. The menu includes a number of exotically Indian-named dishes, many of which turn out to be recognisable favourites (Murgh Tikka Hare Plaza or chicken tikka masala, anyone?), and some of which are interesting twists on those favourites or are more authentic regional dishes. Specials really are special: I had a wonderfully unusual saffron G&T (what other balti establishment has a special drink of the day?!). As you can guess, this is not your usual high street slop. The food is delicious but be warned that it is, true to its roots, well-spiced and verges on too spicy for me, so pick carefully. One irritation: they don't normally take orders for poppadoms until you order your mains (are there people who go in and eat nothing but poppadoms and then bugger off?) so you can't stave off hunger pangs whilst you peruse the lengthy menu. Service is generally good although the language barrier can make for some amusing exchanges at order time. At around £25 a head (poppadoms, main dish, shared rice/naan, couple of drinks) it may not be the cheapest in town but you don't get much change from twenty quid in most Indians now anyway. Gets a tick on the ballot paper from me.

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