SquareMeal Review of
Spanning six decades and three generations, this jovial neighbourhood trattoria lays claim to being ‘London’s oldest family-run Italian restaurant’. Executive chef Eduardo Chiavarini recently
celebrated 25 years at the stove, and continues to dish up the kind of food that makes his loyal regulars feel warm and content with the world. The faithful come here to sample plates of minestrone
lombardo, king prawns ‘aglio e olio’, handmade gnocchi with fresh basil pesto and veal chops with white wine and rosemary – with sides of zucchini fritte, cavolo nero and sautéed potatoes if
required. The place is still run with charm and good humour by the owner’s siblings, and the wine list helps things along with familiar bottles from Italy’s better-known wine-making regions.
Il Portico is recommended for