SquareMeal Review of
Hoi Polloi (bar) at Ace Hotel
Hoi Polloi, the latest cool magnet from Messrs Flack and Waddington, owners of Bistrotheque and Shrimpy’s, has a cocktail bar in one corner for those not booking in to the Ace Hotel’s all-day brasserie. Well-executed Festival of Britain-esque decor suggests a dining room at a 1950s' holiday camp, while the cocktail
menu references another strand of camp also prevalent during that decade – Polari, a rich, coded patois that appropriated many Yiddish terms to disguise homosexuality: ‘omi-polone’ (meaning an
effeminate man) is a Buffalo Trace bourbon and port sour, while ‘riah shusher’ (a hairdresser) comes out as a rhubarb and vanilla Tapatio Blanco Tequila mule. Beers include two from Hackney
microbrewers Beavertown, wines start at £4 a glass, and bar snacks range from chickpea fritters or pickled onion rings with salt cod paste to cheekily named ‘puffy scratchings’.
Hoi Polloi (bar) at Ace Hotel is recommended for