SquareMeal Review of
After a trial run as a pop-up in Shepherd’s Bush, chef Mitz Vora has launched this permanent venue on Fitzrovia’s Foley Street – where small plates of unusual global flavour combinations are the draw. Dining takes place on two floors: a windowless basement, all stripped-back chic, where you can sit at a counter overlooking the prep action in the kitchen; or a more buzzing ground-floor dining room. Whichever space you choose, you can expect a predominantly young professional clientele fuelled by shots (Picklebacks and rum Slammers) or something from the short but wide-ranging cocktail list. Ticking trendy boxes without ever feeling try-hard, the menu pulls together the likes of cornflake-crusted fried chicken, pickled shimeji mushrooms, corn and chorizo; or perhaps aubergine with pomegranate, dates, chilli lime yoghurt and feta – vegetarians are well catered for. Our charred morsels of chicken, sticky with Korean barbecue sauce, came alive with a kick of the sour vinegar dip; and chicory tacos filled with tuna ceviche had flavour aplenty, thanks to hints of coconut and the crunch of peanuts. Don’t skip the disarmingly different desserts, including lemongrass pannacotta and a winning combination of chocolate-chip banana cake, bacon and strawberry jam. Like the food, the wine list is a well-balanced, good-value selection, and staff are friendly and plentiful. A small bar overlooking the street is a pleasingly social touch, adding to the vivacity that Foley’s has brought to the area.