SquareMeal Review of
When they set up their itty-bitty burger hut in Virginia back in 1986, little did the four young Murrell brothers know that their homespun idea would grow into a 1,000-plus phenomenon. Occupying a
grand corner site in Covent Garden, their first London outpost comes with the chain’s hyped-up Farmer John appeal – all shouty red and white chequered tiles, utilitarian seating, walls lined with
gigantic sacks of potatoes, peanuts and messy burgers wrapped in aluminium foil. You're welcome to as many free toppings as you want, or you can munch your way through cheesy bacon dogs, American
sandwiches and Cajun fries cooked in ‘healthy’ peanut oil – all washed down with a fizzy Coke from the freestyle machine. Noisy, multiple queues can test fans’ patience and prices can feel stupidly
steep – no matter how authentically Yankee it all is.