SquareMeal Review of
Built in 1898, inspired by the long-lost 16th-century Château de Madrid near Paris, Charles Fitzroy Doll’s Renaissance-style grand hotel has been lavishly overhauled by new owners. They hope to draw fashionable London to Fitz’s, The Principal’s destination cocktail lounge. The interior, designed by Russell Sage, is partitioned into two saloons served by a central bar. Darkly decadent and Byron-esque, the look is 19th-century Romantic baronial. Drink-in the surroundings while perusing Sean Fennelly’s (ex-Milk & Honey) cocktail list. Despite its arch Jazz Age graphics and shouty tags – ‘Lush’, ‘Tangy’, ‘Perfumed’ – the selection is a quietly confident repertoire of modern Manhattans, complex Martinis, inventive Slings and Rickeys. Standouts include Orlando (a Plantation pineapple rum, lime, pastis and pale-ale Daiquiri) and Golden Echo (a pear brandy, walnut liqueur and rum Mule, with pimento bitters and toasted sesame). Fitz’s food fits the bill too: graze on bone-marrow croquettes; Hasselback potatoes with sour cream and caviar; or lemon-sole tacos.