SquareMeal Review of
The wholesale refurb of Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen has yielded a proper cocktail bar to replace the half-hearted effort that went before.
Smart-casual and handsome in cayenne leather, wood and brick, it takes up half of the venue’s ground floor, with drinks pitched around the £9 mark. Try Riminita (a chilli-spiked margarita marrying
Calle Blanco 23 Tequila with lemony Acqua di Cedro), gas town (a rewarding mezcal-based bittersweet martini) or ’fat-washed’ Four Roses bourbon with golden syrup and chocolate bitters (aka old fat
fashioned). To eat, snacks such as beef and barley buns with horseradish, Lincolnshire Poacher cheese croquettes with pickled walnuts or soft-boiled devilled eggs with smoky cod’s roe and radish
are big on flavour, but is crispy fried quail with mushroom ketchup much more than a pukka take on the turkey twizzlers Jamie has berated in the past?
Fifteen (bar) is recommended for