SquareMeal Review of
The Felin Fach Griffin
With its motto ‘eat, drink, sleep’, this is the kind of rural inn-with-rooms everyone dreams about. Imagine views of the Brecon Beacons, a sturdy red-brick facade and – inside – tiled floors, big wooden beams, granny’s kitchen tables, well-worn leather sofas and seasonal open fires. Also expect personable service and a bevy of customers who look like they’re fresh from a shoot for the Boden catalogue. The kitchen taps into a network of local suppliers and knows how to get the best from top-notch produce – without making the food too fancy. Terrific-value lunches could be as simple as mushroom and tarragon soup, slow-cooked pork belly with hash browns or even a ploughman’s with pickles and soda bread, while supper could run from cured and oak-roast salmon with cucumber and borage via Welsh rib-eye with chips and béarnaise to pistachio cake with poached pear and sour cream. Also don’t miss the palate-expanding selection of Welsh cheeses. Bright ideas in the kitchen lead to bright flavours on the plate, and there’s a terrific wine list too, with ne’er a supermarket bottle in sight.
Former Best Pub List Of The Year
A terrific pub list. The 100 or so bins might be mostly European, but the selection and pricing are impressive. A fine sherry range, and 17 wines available in two glass sizes and two carafe sizes complete the picture of a place that knows its market superbly well.