SquareMeal Review of
El Vino Blackfriars
These convivial wine bars boast some of the capital’s most historic locations - the Cannon Street branch, for example, is housed in a former smugglers’ haunt that survived the Great Fire of London. Some of the venues wear their place in history lightly, their tongue-and-groove panelling updated with a lick of Farrow & Ball; others revel in the patina of their polished wood and Cluedo-style candelabras. Despite the tavern-style feel of these pubby bars, the wine list reads like that of a high-minded restaurant, with loads by the glass and some gems, such as a 2013 Pouilly Fuissé, also available in magnum. It’s global in scope but favours Iberian and South American wines to match the Spanish-style menu - tapas such as piquillo peppers stuffed with mint-infused whipped goats’ curd, or aromatic pork skewers with spicy mojo for dipping venture beyond the usual tortilla and croquetas. Plenty for the modern Londoner, then.